Friday, September 30, 2005

Destination: Africa!

In just a few hours i will be taking off for Africa. The excitement is quite overwhelming. The wonderful thing about traveling is that you learn so much as the world brightens in your mind, like a long dark shadow suddenly illuminated to reveal the treasures of a place. It's one thing to see a country or a city on a map, but to walk through it, taste the air, hear the bustle of life, see the people and listen to their language - it is humbling, it is an honor.

In the past several days i have been offered numerous gems of wisdom and pearls of knowledge from friends and family. Most simply tell me to "Be careful, and come back safe." I appreciate the sentiment. It's nice to hear, but not especially useful. You know, i do PLAN on coming back safe after all! The absolute best practical advice i've received comes from my Uncle Kurt:

"...if someone in khakis suddenly hands you an AK-47 you might want to check your agenda before accepting it."

Excellent point - I'll be certain to keep that one in mind!

Keep checking back every few days cause if there is electricity AND internet and i have a few minutes between climbing mountains and running from lions i will post updates.

My friend Jen was kind enough to remind me what i'll look like to the lions in Tanzania. Below is the cover of the "Good luck and try not to be eaten while in Africa!" card she gave me. Thanks Jen!

Sunday, September 25, 2005

Wildlife Safari!

"You cannot describe a wild lion's roar. You can only say that you listened and the lion roared. It is not at all like the noise the lion makes at the start of MGM pictures. When you hear it you first feel it in your toes and it runs all the way up through your body." - Ernest Hemingway, in True At First Light

Just imagine lying in the dark in your tent listening to the sounds of the wild things in the night. You hear a lion's great roar in the distance, but it is so powerful you can't be sure how close it really is. The roar could mean that he's just made a kill, or perhaps he's saying something to the other lions. Either way there are no fences here and you are now in lion territory. I can think of few things more exciting.

While on safari there is no telling what incredible animals you will encounter. However, i have a good feeling that the experience of sharing their space will never leave you. Tanzania is known for being among the leaders in African conservation efforts and is lucky enough to possess arguably the best game parks in the world. When you think of the "African plain", with acacia trees beautifully spread over tall yellow grasses, what you are thinking of is Tanzania. This is quintessential Africa.

I'm just excited to have the opportunity to explore the Serengeti National Park and see these incredible animals. If i had more time i'd love to go on a "walking safari", which is pretty self-explanatory. You don't see as much game on foot and it is certainly more dangerous (usually requires that you hire gun bearers), but infinitely exciting. Instead, to maximize my time i'll travel via land rover to cover large areas of land and spy many more animals. If you asked what i am most excited to see, i'd probably say "anything!". How often do you get the chance to see zebras, lions, elephants, hyenas, hippos, or giraffes in their natural environment?!?

Truth is i am most looking forward to seeing elephants. These creatures are fascinating. Scientists have recently discovered that they communicate by trumpeting (nothing new there) but they can actually hear each other MILES away through their feet!!! They also are very social animals with sophisticated social structures. Elephants even display emotions, having been known to "mourn" the death of a pack member years later and express joy at being reunited with one another.

One story i love comes from an elephant researcher who lost her flip-flop shoe in the bush. As she walked shoeless back to her vehicle a nearby elephant threw the lost shoe to her. The elephant appeared to be acting playful, so she threw the shoe back to see what would happen. Sure enough the elephant picked up the shoe and tossed it back! This went on for a good twenty minutes. Though we've seen elephants perform in the circus, remember, this is a wild animal! Elephants are also known to be very protective of their young and a mother won't think twice about trampling any human to death who gets too close. So yea, i will have to remember to be careful out there in the bush!

Friday, September 23, 2005

Man Eating Lions??! Oh Yes!

As humans increasingly encroach upon the natural environment the results are not always pretty, especially when it is the territory of lions being invaded. The most famous example of this comes from an area called Tsavo not far from where i will be in Tanzania.

In 1898 two large male lions attacked Indian workers who were building a railway through the region. During the night, these lions would sneak into the worker's encampment and drag the victims screaming from their tents one by one. The workers tried to protect themselves by constructing thornbush barriers called bomas but this was hardly successful. In just nine months these two lions killed and ate over 140 humans!!! Construction of the railway was halted as hundreds of the workers fled for their lives. Eventually, British Colonel John Patterson was able to kill both lions after cleverly devising traps and capturing them. However, the frightening legacy of the "Man-Eaters of Tsavo" lives on.

Personally i can't blame the lions - but don't tell them that. Humans have increasingly moved in on their hunting territories and killed large numbers of the game animals lions depend on for survival. Still, lion attacks make great headlines - below are several recent articles.

Lion Attacks on Rise in Tanzania

Toothache "Made Lion Eat Humans"

Lion Devours Human 'Lovemaker'

But hey, not ALL lion headlines are so bad. Check this one out:

Lions Capture Escaped Cons


And if you have a good sense of humor, check out this fake article:

Lion Mutilates 42 Midgets in Cambodian Ring Fight

Thursday, September 22, 2005

Mandela - The People's Hero

When i began preparing for this trip, i felt that South Africa could not be missed. Having emerged from the violent ravages of the apartheid struggle just 11 years ago(!) i'd heard great things about this "new nation". However, i knew very little about the country's struggle and how it came to be today. It's a bit embarrassing to admit but the truth is all i knew was this: apartheid = bad, Mandela = good.

Determined to educate myself on the subject, i picked up Nelson Mandela's excellent autobiography A Long Walk to Freedom. And a very long walk it was - Mandela was imprisoned for twenty-seven years, seventeen of which was spent on the completely isolated Robben Island, South Africa's Alcatraz. As a young lawyer, Mandela fought for equal rights among the country's blacks, who far outnumbered the white ruling minority. He believed in peaceful resistance and hoped that both whites and blacks could live together as equals in a democratic society. Unfortunately, the rulers of the apartheid regime believed the best way to handle Mandela and his growing popularity was to convict him for "treason" and sentence him to life in prison. They thought by imprisoning the charismatic and well-spoken leader that he would be forgotten and the equality movement would die. How very wrong they were.

Mandela never compromised his ideals and always treated his captors and the apartheid leaders with the utmost respect, even when they didn't necessarily deserve it. To illustrate his sincerity to peaceful co-existence he even learned their language (Afrikaans) and studied their history in order to better understand them as a people. As the anti-apartheid movement gained international support and eventually turned violent, the oppressive rulers knew their grip was slipping as the country stood on the brink of tearing itself apart in bloody fashion. From his prison cell, with extreme patience and cleverness, Mandela masterfully negotiated the delicate transition from apartheid rule to the establishment of democracy and equal rights for all South Africans - black and white.

To legitimize the peaceful transition to democracy, apartheid leaders realized that Mandela had to be released. On February 11th, 1990 the world watched as Mandela was finally released after 27 years in prison - truly a day that South Africa will never forget. He was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 1993. In the next few years the government transitioned to democracy and Nelson Mandela became the first freely elected South African president in 1994.

An inspiration to millions around the world, Nelson Mandela is undoubtedly one of the greatest leaders and true heroes of the past century. When i am in Cape Town i plan to visit Robben Island where Mandela was imprisoned for so many years. Former political prisoners now act as tour guides as the healing continues and South Africa moves towards a bright future.

"I have fought against white domination, and I have fought against black domination. I have cherished the ideal of a democratic and free society in which all persons live together in harmony and with equal opportunities. It is an ideal which I hope to live for and to achieve. But if needs be, it is an ideal for which I am prepared to die." - Nelson Mandela, April 20th 1964, prior to being sentenced to life imprisonment

Wednesday, September 21, 2005

Training For The Climb

When i tell others about this trip the most frequently asked question is - "So just how do you train to climb a mountain like that??" Good question. For this i did a lot of reading and asking around before designing my training program.

The basic idea is that before the climb you want to be in great all-around shape.. if your body can handle strenuous activity at the current elevation, you will be better able to handle very strenuous activity at higher elevation (with less oxygen). That being said, it is important to vary your training activities to handle the various stressors on the mountain. Once on the mountain it is important to climb slowly and steadily (your body demands less oxygen this way), drink LOTS of water (so the oxygen you breathe gets distributed throughout your body), and i also plan to take Diamox, which aids your body in acclimatizing.

The training program i designed and have been following for the past few months is composed of the following:

Cardio Activity - running several miles (3-4) almost every other day
Weight Training - i adjusted my usual routine to focus on the lower body
Stairclimbing - yes, the Stairclimber at the gym.. and it's tougher than it looks!
Hiking - on the weekends i've been taking long hikes (6-7 hours) on mountains in the area
Interval Training - this is basically periods of intense activity alternated with less intense activity, for this i ran laps and stadiums at the local high school track

Since my training program began i have run 81 miles, lifted a few thousand pounds of weights (not all at once of course), climbed 654 flights of stairs on the Stairclimber, hiked 37 miles of mountains, and run 6 miles of intervals. Below is a picture i took on Camelback Mountain which i climbed a few weeks ago in Phoenix.

Monday, September 19, 2005

Climbing Kilimanjaro

"It was without a doubt the most difficult thing I’ve ever gone through with and completed in my life." - Dan D., summited Kilimanjaro 9/17/2005

So how do you go about climbing the tallest mountain in Africa? Tanzanian law requires that you hire a guide, which in all honesty is probably a good thing! The guide will help show you the route up the mountain while porters carry up much of the gear and cooking equipment. In Tanzania being a guide or porter is a highly desirable job and so the competition is stiff. During the climb the guide will constantly remind you by shouting Pole! Pole! which is Swahili for "slowly! slowly!". Going slow with even breathing is a big part of helping your body to acclimatize.

There are several routes up the mountain. The most popular and fastest route is called the Marangu or 'Coca-Cola' route. Climbers choose Marangu because it is the cheapest and easiest way up the mountain, but it is also the most crowded. Along the way climbers sleep in huts (i'd prefer to rough it). On Marangu you also have the least chance of successfully reaching the summit because the body has a very difficult time acclimatizing (hence increasing the risk of death).

I've chosen to take the Machame route, which is known to be more difficult than Marangu but far more beautiful. Also, the route reaches a high point in elevation on the third day before descending across the mountain face to that night's camp. This aids adjustment to the altitude. Reaching the summit on this route is still difficult, but more likely than some of the other routes. And above all.. this route promises spectacular views along the way.

Friday, September 16, 2005

Mt. Kilimanjaro

The first time i heard of Mt. Kilimanjaro was a few years ago when i read Hemingway's short story The Snows of Kilimanjaro. My imagination was captured by this incredible mountain standing like a guardian over the east African plain. When i heard it was possible to climb the mountain, it immediately was recorded on my mental list of "Things i Must Do Before i Die". There is no time like the present to start checking things off that list! Which begs the question.. what's on your list?

Mt. Kilimanjaro is the world's tallest freestanding mountain, formed by three massive volcanoes that became one giant mountain. Visually striking and known for its beauty, Mt. Kilimanjaro rises above the surrounding African plain in dramatic fashion. Atop the mountain, glaciers and snow provide a year-round sparkling white cap. Sadly, these glaciers which have existed for thousands of years are expected to be gone in the next 15-20 years. One exciting thing about climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro is that you have the opportunity to traverse through 5 distinct eco-zones: beginning in rainforest, then heath (small shrublands), moorland (peat moss), alpine desert and finally glaciers.

Climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro is no easy task. Only fifty percent of those who attempt to climb the mountain actually make it to the summit, and each year several climbers die while trying. In fact, ten climbers have died on the mountain the past year. The most dangerous aspect of climbing is succumbing to altitude sickness from the lack of oxygen.

I love this fact - my buddy Pete (who is a pilot) explained to me that the FAA requires any airplane flying above 14,000 feet to have a pressurized cabin with oxygen. At 19,350 feet, the summit of Kilimanjaro is far higher, and the air only has HALF the oxygen that it does at sea level. If you're not careful and/or prepared, the lack of oxygen to your brain can result in altitude sickness and your body systems begin shutting down. Scary, i know.. so that's why i've been training the past three months and plan to be 100% prepared when i tackle the mountain in just a few short weeks. Wish me luck!

Tuesday, September 13, 2005

So Why Africa?

Safari is a Swahili word that means "a journey", but in English the word conjures up "adventure", "exotic animals", or perhaps images of the wide open African plain. Several people have asked me "So what crazy idea inspired you to go to Africa?!?" A fair question, indeed. For me, Africa holds a sort of romantic wildness, where human beings still live off the land while amazing animals (that we've only ever seen in zoos) roam free and wild. Aside from seeking natural beauty, I'm drawn to this fascinating land and people tempered by unique political, economic, and cultural histories.

Of course, "Africa" is an entire continent, very large and incredibly diverse. While it is comprised of over 50 countries(!), it's usually easier to say "i'm going to Africa".. as most don't know their Zambia from their Zimbabwe. Raise your hand if you fall into this category. It's okay, because i didn't exactly know these differences either before i started preparing for this trip. But that's why i choose to travel.. to meet people of different walks of life, experience new cultures, and learn more about our incredible world.

So just where am i going on this African adventure? First, i am flying direct from DC to Johannesburg, South Africa (17 glorious hours!) and then another two hour flight to Cape Town. After a few days exploring this culturally rich and beautiful city, i'll fly to the east African country of Tanzania. Here i will spend the bulk of my trip as i go on safari in the world renowned Serengeti National Park where i hope to see elephants, lions, rhinos, giraffes, leopards, zebras, hippos, and maybe an odd wildebeest or hyena. While in Tanzania, i also plan to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro, one of the world's most striking mountains and Africa's tallest. This should be quite a challenge, and i welcome a great challenge!

I created this blog with the intention of sharing my experiences with you. Hopefully i'll manage to keep it interesting, get some awesome pictures during my adventures, and maybe we'll even learn a thing or two about this dynamic continent!