Kwisha + Asante. (the end & thanks)

myself and Kilimanjaro.

All good things must come to an end. With the end of my adventure in Africa comes the end of this blog. I hope you have enjoyed it a fraction as much as i have enjoyed sharing my experiences with everyone.

It took me just over 30 hours to travel home from Dar es Salaam, Tanzania to Washington DC via Johannesburg, Senegal, and Atlanta. But what a trip it was! My adventure in Africa was incredible, and the experiences i've had over the past month will last a lifetime. Looking back i marvel at all the discoveries made, the fascinating things learned, the wonderful ideas shared, and the incredible people that i met. Truly.. i am very lucky.

Several Maasai warriors chillin.

Please check out the photos from my adventure. Though i took over 650 pictures while in Africa.. i've boiled it down to the best 200 for your viewing pleasure, complete with captions! Enjoy..

http://www.flickr.com/photos/sublimisdeus/sets/

This trip was certainly made possible with a little help from my friends. So i'd like to extend..

Many Thanks..

...to AJ for driving me to the airport at 5:30am and for use of his ski mask, to Mom and Dad for the super new sleeping bag, to Dana for the use of her Cape Town guidebook, to Sarah C. for the blog inspiration, to Aaron for the excellent pre-departure cd collection, to Grandma for the prayers that i would survive, to Sochieta for the inspirational emailgrams, to Lauren for the last minute sewing job, to cousin Tom for the Endurafit supershirt, to Father Mark for the Swahili lesson (where did you learn THAT?!), to Heather M. for the excellent TZ advice, to Mohammed for taking me to the mosque, to Hermes for the electricity convertor, to Andreas for the moonlight safari inspiration, to Dan for renting my room, to Uncle Kurt for the advice, to Jen for the amazing card and airport pickup, to Donovan at Bootsnall, to the DOC for the time off, to Janis for letting me borrow his trekking poles and for selling me those mountain pants..

..and thank you to EVERYONE who sent birthday wishes, added their comments to my posts, and especially THANK YOU FOR READING!!!

While in Africa i was inspired to no end. In addition to furiously writing in my journal, i composed numerous haiku poems along the way. This is one i'd like to share..

love. life. beauty. death.
a miracle surrounds us -
blink.. and you miss it.

sunset on the Serengeti.. it doesn't get much better than this.

Experiences in Africa.

Cocoa Beach in Dar es Salaam, taken just hours before i left Africa.

Africa marks the 4th continent in which i have stepped foot and Tanzania is the 20th country i have visited. I must say that it feels like i have learned more and been more inspired traveling in this continent than any other. There is something mysterious yet exciting about Africa, and in some ways it is even daunting.

An artist creates a traditional Tinga Tinga painting

Andreas is the well-traveled German friend with whom i shared a few days of safari adventures. When i asked him how many countries he has been to, he began naming those countries he has yet to visit.. Mongolia.. Turkmenistan.. Congo, etc. I certainly admire his travel record. One night he admitted being initially daunted at the prospect of traveling here alone, but that feeling quickly evaporated after his trip began. Despite all the bad news we hear in Western media, i found that Africa isn't such a scary place after all. In fact, the people i met (especially in Tanzania) were genuinely warm and incredibly friendly. When i think back to my initial reaction after arriving in Dar es Salaam, i can now afford to laugh at myself a bit. In very few places have i felt so welcome.

good ol' east African stickball!

Sikhism is a religion that was born in India and blends beliefs found in Islam and Hinduism. While in Moshi i met some really nice Sikhs at the Sikh community center. They invited me to watch their weekly stickball match, which is not unlike field hockey. After the match, Vindi humbly explained that his team was preparing for the east African championships against Uganda and Kenya. If successful, they would go on to South Africa for the continental championships. It was clear to me that making it to South Africa would be a very high honor. Vindi mistook me for a local and asked if i would like to join the following week's match. I thanked him very much and told him that would be great.

Currently polling at close to 80%, i'd bet on CCM's Jakaya Kikwete as TZ's next president

In just a few days Tanzania will hold a major election. I am always fascinated by the local political situation and spoke to everyone i met to get their opinion. Although Tanzania has a stable government and democratic system, it is far from perfect. The current ruling party CCM has an iron grip on the majority, while the 18 other political parties can barely muster a few percentage points in the polls. The lack of a true opposition results in corrupt government leaders who frequently look out for themselves. Candidates must pay large sums to run for the CCM while the party openly solicits "contributions" from businesses for their own "protection". Hmm.. sounds kind of like the mafia to me! But of course CCM prefers it this way.. even passing laws to make it nearly impossible for opposition parties to gain any kind of widespread support.

A candidate speaks to the crowd through bullhorns that are utterly indecipherable.

The thing that baffles me is that most Tanzanians support the CCM despite its self interested tendencies. Their support is partially due to the lack of access to information and real political discourse, but also because the CCM uses its many "contributions" on great big posters, green flags, and gives out free t-shirts and hats to everyone - who wouldn't like that?!

As i spoke to people including a parliamentary candidate named Isaac of the United Democratic Party, i devised a solution to Tanzania's difficult one party problem. "It won't be easy, but it's a start", i told Isaac. While reading about the election i came across voter's top concerns - 1) access to clean water, 2) access to health care, and 3) passable roads.. a little different than the top issues in the States. Still, Tanzanians feel lucky considering Kenya's current constitutional crisis just across the border. The headline in the newspaper one morning read "Tanzania Less Corrupt Than Kenya and Uganda".. nice! I got the distinct impression from several Tanzanians i spoke with that they were thinking.. at least we're in better shape than Kenya!

The mosque in Moshi where we prayed to Allah.

For Muslims across the world it is the holy month of Ramadan, which is marked by fasting from dawn to dusk and the regular five daily prayers. I became friends with a Muslim businessman named Mohammed and we spoke about the Qur'an and religion in TZ. I asked him if i could join him in prayer at the mosque and he welcomed the idea. We met at a designated time before the 4:30 mid-afternoon prayer and made our way to the mosque.

In order to present ourselves before Allah we had to cleanse ourselves. Before entering, we joined the other men at an outdoor bath where we carefully washed our faces, hands, arms, and bare feet. Once inside, we stood on placement lines in the carpet while men filled in on either side and on the lines behind us. When the beautiful singing prayer began, we dropped to our knees before placing our foreheads to the carpet floor, submitting before Allah and asking to be washed of our sins. I was of course the only mzungu, but here we are brothers. They called me Jamu, since John sounds a little, ahem.. Christian. Although the religious makeup in TZ is evenly split between Christianity, Islam, and indigenous beliefs.. incredibly the people co-exist quite peacefully.

woman carrying a bottle of Coca-Cola on her head.. i just love this picture!

African Cuisine.

For some reason 'Africa' and 'cuisine' just don't sound right together. Perhaps this is because the food found there is as diverse as the continent itself. That being said, Sarah had an excellent question in a previous comment - what is the food like in Africa? Granted, i traveled in just two countries but i was able to sample some local fare along the way. The truth is most of the time i was able to eat like a king in between my Kilimanjaro and safari adventures, eating out for just a few bucks each day.

Being the international city that it is, Cape Town has a fair diversity of influences when it comes to food. While there i rediscovered my beloved Nando's - a Portuguese style flame-grill restaurant chain that began in South Africa and i first tried in Australia.. go figure. They are famous for their tangy but spicy Peri-Peri sauces, which can now be found in American supermarkets as the company prepares to launch its restaurants Stateside. I met the franchise owner who was super nice and we talked about the company a bit. I told her how much i looked forward to seeing Nando's in the States, which she of course thought was great to hear.

The beautiful Greater Kudu.

Having tried kangaroo in Australia, i was somewhat eager to sample some exotic game while in Africa. For some reason, wildebeest just sounds like it would be awesome to try. But on my way to Africa i read an article in National Geographic discussing how people's taste for game meats (especially rare or endangered) has only further encouraged the poaching of these great animals. Thus, i decided to pass on the "game restaurants" that i saw in Cape Town. However, I did sample several kinds of jerky, but only because it was given to me. I tried ostrich, eland, and kudu.. all of which were quite tasty and not too dissimilar to beef jerky.

I spent most of my time in Tanzania, where i was able to try several new things. The staple of the Tanzanian diet is ugali, which is mashed maize or cassava flour mixed with a little water to produce essentially a tasteless white dough. From here, Tanzanians usually add a sauce containing vegetables and if you can afford it, some meat as well. When i asked to try ugali, my safari cook was excited that i was interested, and i must say it was quite good. Of course, without the sauce it would be tasteless dough, but hey together the two make quite a meal!

chicken mambo yote.. delicious!

Another dish that was highly recommended to me by locals was called mambo yote. In this case the dish was composed of chicken sautéed with onions, green peppers, and tomatoes served with cabbage slaw on a hot plate.. similar to fajitas but with rice instead of tortillas. The small cup held a spicy sweet sauce that i poured over the rice and chicken.. it was great!

And last but not least, i had the best Indian food of my life during my trip. It has been said that the best Indian food outside of India can be found in Africa, and i believe it! A sizeable Indian population resides in many African countries. Most of the Indians come to start their own small businesses, and with them they bring some fantastic recipes. I loved it!

Nothing like a safari birthday cake, woo-ee!

While on safari i celebrated my 27th birthday. I asked my guide how Tanzanians celebrate birthdays and he replied, "We usually make a cake". Wait.. that sure sounds familiar. We were camping in the bush and the only thing to cook over were hot coals, but somehow my cook was able to bake me a birthday cake.. i have no idea how he did it. I was very surprised, but felt very lucky and was sure to cut pieces for all of my new friends. Not a bad place for a birthday!

Adventure in the Serengeti!

The Great Migration has begun. Any day now the short rains will arrive, marking the end of the dry season in East Africa. In anticipation, the Serengeti’s 1.5 million wildebeest have already begun to return south from Kenya’s Masai Mara where they’ve spent the past few months. Traveling with them are thousands of zebra. The two tend to stick together, for the zebra have superior eyesight and the wildebeest possess exceptional sense of smell. Together, they increase each other’s chances of survival.

A herd of wildebeest and several zebra walk miles to this watering hole.

A wildebeest making the long migration.

Here i am observing a herd of wildebeest.

We drive along a dirt road for hours to reach the Serengeti, and i am amazed but very pleased that this is the only way to reach the world’s most prolific wildlife park. Along the way, our first stop is Lake Manyara. Just moments after driving into the park, i am absolutely thrilled to see a mother elephant and her 2 year-old just 20 feet away, munching peacefully on acacia branches. Minutes later the trees part and the lake is visible.. presenting an AMAZING scene. Herds of zebra and wildebeest mingle among several giraffe and water buffalo while hippos bob in the water. I nearly climbed out of my seat in excitement, much to the amusement of my guide/driver Hashim!

Lake Manyara - Giraffe, Zebra, and Hippos in the water.. wow!

With all of the excitement, wonder, and awe.. the scene was surreal. It was like entering a real Jurassic Park, seeing all of these incredible animals in abundance that i have only ever dreamed of witnessing in their natural environment. I wish i could impart this thrill and sheer joy to you, but it is something that can only be experienced firsthand. However, I do have a few stories to share from my African wildlife safari.

Water Buffalo grazing at Lake Manyara.

As we drove though the Lake Manyara park we came upon a herd of elephant walking along the road. I discovered that i have a unique talent for identifying the sex and relative age of elephants based just on sight.. i really do love these animals. We noticed a small baby elephant among the group, no more than a few months old. When a baby is around, the herd becomes extremely protective, so we moved cautiously.

This baby elephant rules the road.

Our truck crept along behind the herd, which had no intention of leaving the road. The mother turned sideways and blocked the road completely, not allowing us to pass as the baby proceeded unaware. She wanted to show us who was in charge, so she stomped her front foot and threw dirt with her trunk. When Hashim moved the truck ahead slightly, she turned to face us menacingly head on, threatening a charge.. okay, bad idea!! Finally, after about ten minutes the baby and the herd left the road and we were allowed to pass.

Woah there! Okay, okay.. we'll wait for you and your baby to go ahead!

On our first day driving through the Serengeti we spotted a cheetah, and trotting along not far behind came two cheetah cubs! Hashim told me that even on his many trips to the area over the past nine years, it was rare and special to see just one cheetah, but two cubs as well was incredible! I was able to capture some good photos while the three perched atop a termite mound. We watched them for awhile before i suggested to Hashim “Twende” – let’s go. But he said, “Wait, there’s a hyena!” Sure enough, the hyena stalked closer and closer, eyeing our little cubs as a nice meal. The mother and cubs all watched very closely as the hyena neared. After getting within about 150 feet, the hyena must have realized his presence was well known and he slowly moved off. I cheered silently for the mother and cubs but was thrilled to no end with seeing this occur.

Mama Cheetah and cubs.. aren't they cute??!

I believe this sign is self explanatory.

At our camp i made friends with two Germans and a Norwegian who were all traveling solo like myself. The camp was just plopped right in the bush, with no fences or other barriers between ourselves and wild Africa. A sign warned campers not to leave the camp or else you may be attacked. So after dinner, what did we do? We went for our own walking safari, of course. As the other campers sat around a campfire telling stories or jokes we quietly snuck out of camp as the full moon lit our way.

The full moon rises over our camp.

We crept along in the grass until we could no longer see or hear our camp. About 1,000 yards from camp we spotted something.. look! It was a hyena.. wait, two of them.. no, THREE, and they were looking directly at us, watching. Then they began to spread out as they approached – we were being HUNTED!! Despite the moonlight, it was difficult to clearly see their movements. Someone suggested we go back to camp immediately.. to get our binoculars! We all agreed this was a good idea.

Fifteen minutes later we returned. At first we didn’t see anything. Wait, what are those? Zebra. Several of them.. moving from our left to right, stopping to look at us. Suddenly they were startled and trotted along quickly, and then we saw why.. hyenas trailing them. We of course followed. About ten minutes later we found the zebras in a clearing, with several hyenas lurking in the trees nearby. All at once the zebras took off in a loud gallop. Through my binoculars i could clearly make out the hyenas running alongside snapping at the zebra’s legs, hoping to bring one down. Straight out of National Geographic!

They all disappeared in the bush and we saw nothing. A few minutes pass. I look back to where the zebras were and see two hyenas. Then we hear several loud haunting hyena calls.. woo-ooh, woo-ooh! This is the sound hyena make when they’ve made a kill and are calling the rest of the pack. Though we are an adventurous group, we know this is our cue to leave. If there is a kill, within minutes fifty or more hyena may arrive for the feast.. and we certainly do not want to get caught between them and their meal. Wow.. what a thrill.

Happy to be alive after our hyena encounter.. Andreas, Arland, Carsten, and myself.

The night sky in Africa is SPECTACULAR. I have not seen a sky so full and glorious since i slept on the ground in the Australian outback. A wonderful moon and shining beauty Venus follow each other across the sky each night, giving me immeasurable pleasure. I eagerly identified the constellations and planets i knew and told anyone who would listen while trying to spot satellites crossing quietly just like my Dad and i do together back in Arizona. One night in camp a Spanish guy overheard me talking about where to see Mars and he excitedly brought out a book on the night sky and several star maps, which we pored over together. Looking up at the African night sky is one of the highlights of the trip for me.

He looks nice and peaceful now, but get too close...

After setting up camp one afternoon i noticed a male elephant grazing at the edge of camp. Few others noticed as i followed him a few yards away. I inched my way closer until i was just a few feet away, where i sat down and watched him for the next thirty minutes. This giant is so powerful yet so peaceful. A few minutes later i found my safari buddies and told them, “Come quick - there is something i want to show you”. In our adventurous spirit we approached too closely too quickly, startling the elephant, who turned on us and charged! We scattered and ran for our lives back into camp - that’s one way to get your heart really pumping!

Standing at the edge of the gorgeous Ngorongoro Crater.

On my final day of safari we descended into the Ngorongoro Crater, a massive and spectacular extinct volcanic crater home to more than 10,000 animals. At one point we came upon a cheetah with what at first appeared to be a cub. Through my binoculars i discovered it was a baby gazelle, no more than two weeks old and hardly taller than your knee. The two appeared to be playing.. the little gazelle hopping around playfully while wagging its small nubby tail. The cheetah was also having fun rolling around and softly batting at the gazelle, which was a fraction of its size. The sun shined warm on the yellow grass as the game continued. I watched this continue for a good fifteen minutes and it was fun to watch. You almost had the feeling that the two were good friends.

A pride of lion relaxes, like they do most of the time.

Then, without notice, the game was over in an instant as the cheetah lunged for the baby gazelle’s throat, sinking its teeth in deep and snapping the young animal’s neck. As the cheetah now proudly held the lifeless body dangling from its mouth, i thought it seemed he was aware of his audience. He carried his kill several yards, stopping regularly to look around. But it wasn’t an audience he was concerned with, it was hyenas he was worried about, who would surely try and steal his prize. Just moments before they were playmates, but as the cheetah ripped into the gazelle’s tender flesh, friends no more. And such is life.. on the wild African plain.

Here are several more photos for your enjoyment!

A Hippo pool.. anyone up for a swim?

These guys actually kill more people each year than any other animal in Africa.

A Hartebeest makes his way on the plain.

The shy but friendly Giraffe.. so fun to watch!

Let's go for a walk, in Africa.

The main street in Moshi, Tanzania

When i step out of the café and into the bright afternoon sun i am greeted by Africa. As i walk down the street, a little girl of six or seven in a blue and white school uniform stops.. and smiles at me. Women line the sidewalks sitting down behind the various fruits they are selling, which are stacked in nice neat little pyramids to make them more attractive. A young boy runs down the road pushing a single giant tire, but what is he going to do with ONE tire?? I see a man with a semi-automatic weapon slung over his shoulder, yet he has no uniform and no one seems alarmed – is this normal? I see a woman wearing a tattered Arizona Diamondbacks hat and a man wearing a Tennessee Titans shirt, but i am certain that neither has seen either sport before. As i continue on a man shouts “Hello my friend!” just to say hello – i nod and smile. An entire street is lined with women sitting behind the most primitive sewing machines, waiting.. waiting for the day that everyone in Africa has enough money to have their clothes hand tailored and they reap a fortune. Sometimes you must walk in the street because there is no sidewalk. I pass by a shop selling televisions.. TELEVISIONS, but who can afford them?? There is some odd music blaring from somewhere, but why? It’s really lost in the shuffle anyway. Two proud Maasai warriors sit on a curb in their signature brilliantly colored togas each holding their walking staff as they watch the swirling chaos of life go by. Young boys carry cardboard boxes or woven baskets jingling change in their hand to attract attention to the wares they are selling – anything from peanuts to toothpaste, water pistols to candy. A man passing by shouts “Jambo!” followed by “How was Kili??” and as we pass i give him a thumbs up and wonder if i know him.. before realizing that’s impossible.

Just by walking down the street here i become a part of everything around me. In America, everyone is living in their own little world, encouraged more and more to associate less and less by the thieving shroud of technology. In Africa, we are what we used to be – the living breathing dying sweating talking smiling laughing dancing coughing HULK that is humanity.

ps. tomorrow i will be taking off for a five day wildlife safari and the day after is my birthday. all i want for my birthday is to hear a lion roar in the night while i am lying in my tent.. god wouldn't that be great!

Climbing Kilimanjaro - The Roof of Africa

Some mountain climbers talk about “conquering the mountain”, but that simply is not true at all. If anything, it is more a test of wills, and the mountain’s will is rock solid – having been forged over millions of years. In reality, climbing a mountain like Kilimanjaro is a tremendous personal challenge. The mountain knows all about its capabilities and limitations, but the question is.. do you? You will find yourself tested in ways your never considered until now. The mountain demands much of you – commitment, desire, toughness, patience, physical and mental endurance. But what do you demand of yourself?

In the morning of the First Day of my climb i met my guide, Samuel, and our porters, Nechi, Avoit, and Reginald.. that’s FOUR humans tasked with assisting me with my climb – wow! As we drove around town collecting the final goods needed for our trek, i asked Samuel how long he has been climbing the mountain. With a big smile, he replied “22 years!” When he got out of the truck to buy some meat i saw that his calf muscles were carved from stone and i knew that it was true.

We drove to the base of the mountain and checked in at the Machame gate. I filled in the registration logbook and looked over the recent entries. Almost ALL the climbers were from various European countries. On four complete pages of names i saw only three Americans. Beautiful.

At the Machame Gate.. let's Rock n' Roll!

I began the first day’s climb through the rainforest with Nechi while the others checked in at the gate and weighed our gear. As we talked Nechi told me about his family. He is the 5th of 6 children, though his father has two wives and a total of nine children. I asked him if this was common in Tanzania and he said yes.. sometimes more than four wives to one man! However, you must pay a dowry in cattle for each wife, so only wealthier men can have multiple wives. Then he asked me, “Can you have more than one wife in America?” I replied, “Unfortunately, no.. unless of course you live in Utah.”

The first day's climb through rainforest was gorgeous.

Day Two of the climb began the same as most days. Wake up at 7 am. At 7:15 i am given warm water and soap to wash my hands and face. This is followed by breakfast, which usually consisted of porridge, a few slices of bread, some cucumber slices, fruit (orange or banana), an egg, two sausages, and tea. When i am done, Nechi would come over and ask, “Fee-nished?” And i’d respond, “Ndiyo, kwisha. Asanta sana.” – Yes, I’m finished. Thank you very much.

Weather permitting, my usual breakfast setup.. table for one!

On the second day i met a very nice Dutch couple on the trail. I told them the very best method for breathing and how to treat the wife’s ailing knee. They greatly appreciated the advice and offered me a cookie.. thus we became immediate friends. Whenever we’d see each other on the trail we’d stop to chat and share sweets. As we sat for lunch we saw two porters running down the mountain and found out that a climber was being evacuated from the mountain. We chewed a little more slowly after that.

My god.. WHAT planet am i on??

“Pole pole” (slowly) became more than just words, it was a mantra. In order to improve your chances of success (and avoid altitude sickness or death) one must walk painfully slow for hours on end. It may not sound like much, but this is EXTREMELY difficult.. especially for an American. You must also breathe slowly and evenly – the ultimate exercise in meditation. Indeed, my experience meditating was a tremendous advantage, allowing me to focus my breathing and remain patient. Breathe in. Step left, right pole. Breath out sloooowly. Step right, left pole. Hydrate. Repeat. I became acutely aware of my heartbeat, body temperature, hydration status, and my body’s calls for more oxygen (yawns, lightheadedness, headaches). There isn’t mush time to think about anything else.

Truly.. the porters are Gods among men!

Before the climb i underestimated its difficulty. I thought the days leading up to the summit night would be fine, with the real difficulty coming at the very end. I was wrong. Each day presented its own challenges and as we climbed higher the difficulty level multiplied. I knew that the altitude adversely effects your appetite, so i began the trek attempting to eat everything placed before me. But by the end of day three, i was already forcing myself to eat and could never finish all of my food. Still, each time the clouds parted and the summit appeared i was driven forward. Seeing the vegetation change before my eyes as i climbed was incredible. This challenge was not without its rewards.

The clouds reveal the summit.. pushing me on, so close, yet still 10,000 feet away!

Day Three was the most difficult thus far. The initial climb was long and tough with a large elevation gain peaking at 13,500 feet. It got worse as the weather turned - first bitingly cold wind, then hail, and eventually driving sleet. I did not expect this, as it was sunny and warm in the morning, so I did not have my gloves with me. My hands froze and fingers began going numb. I borrowed some gloves from Samuel, but my fingers were still numb, so i wrapped each hand carefully in a bandana. Luckily the rest of the day was downhill to camp and went quickly. However, i ended the day with a massive pounding headache.. the first symptom of altitude sickness.

The daunting Barranco Wall.

The morning of Day Four i felt much better, the rain/sleet had stopped and my headache was gone. The beginning of the day’s climb however, was up the sheer face of the Barranco Wall. Just looking at it you cannot imagine that it is even traversable. The “trail” consisted of clamoring over rocks and some rock climbing – i loved it.

Scaling the Barranco Wall.. a little rock climbing anyone? It was awesome!!

During the day’s climb, Samuel and i would stick together, while the porters would finish packing up camp only to surpass us on the trail later so that they could begin setting up the next camp before we arrived. Samuel set the pace by leading, reminding me “pole pole” and stopping occasionally to ask, “Habari, John?” – How are you feeling? I’d usually reply, “Mzuri sana, asante. Twende.” – i’m doing very good, thanks. Let’s keep going.

When we reached Karanga Valley, Samuel showed me where the old campsite had been, explaining “The weather is very bad here and many people were dying in the night, so the rangers moved the campsite to the ridge.” I was glad that to be here after they figured this out.

My wonderful porters and guide - Reginald, Nechi, Avoit, and Samuel.

When i would see porters or other mzungus on the trail i was always sure to greet them in Swahili.. “Hujambo!” – Hello, or “Habari?” – How are you doing? This usually elicits a hearty response from the porters and a confused look by the other mzungus. All of the other climbers i’ve met are very surprised to hear that i am here alone, but that’s a badge of honor for me. Four friendly Germans rolled by on the trail before recognizing the wisdom of my pace and adjusted themselves accordingly.

Patience and even breathing will get you through this desolate landscape.

On the evening of the fourth day, i went outside to gaze up at the stars. With the clouds now gone, the half moon cast a soft glow on everything. Spread out far below lies the twinkling lights of East Africa. Above me, the peak of Kilimanjaro strands in grand majesty, its glaciers pure white in the moonlight while the rest is covered in last night’s new snow. I take it all in for a long time. It is one of the most beautiful things I have seen in my entire life.

In the morning of Day Five, we received some discouraging news. Of the four Germans who started the climb the same day as myself, two had had enough and were forced to begin their descent. The other two, more fitter Germans pressed on and made an attempt on the summit the previous night. Unfortunately, they failed in their attempt after only making it halfway. I pushed this from my mind so that we could reach the Barafu base camp at 15,100 feet and get some rest before my own attempt on the summit that night.

Making the final drive to the summit base camp.

As i lay in my tent trying to get some rest at Barafu camp, i was woken by loud chatter and shouts among the rangers. I asked Nechi what the commotion was about, and he said a German man had fallen badly on his way to the summit, breaking his leg. The "rescue team" was deployed, which consisted of four men and a stretcher balanced on a bicycle wheel. I later found out that it took ten hours for them to get him down the mountain and to a hospital. But i couldn't think about that now.. in just a few hours i would be making my own drive for the summit.

The 'ambulance crew' rushes up the mountain to collect the victim.

Kilimanjaro - Drive For the Summit

ne plus ultra • \nay-plus-UL-truh\ • noun *1: the highest point capable of being attained 2: the most profound degree or quality of state

On just 2 ½ hours of sleep, i arose at 11pm to tackle the summit of Kilimanjaro. I was pumped and excited as i piled on all of my gear from head to toe – head lamp, knit cap, ski mask, 3 shirts, my big jacket, 3 pairs of gloves, 3 pairs of pants, 3 pairs of socks, and of course, my lucky red bandana tied around my neck (which kept me in one piece when i ran with the bulls in Pamplona). Samuel and i set off in the darkness with only our headlamps to light the way. The moon was out and our only companion in a clear sky. Just 4,265 feet to go!

time for my shot at the summit.. giddiup!!

Twenty minutes into the climb i had a frightening realization – my fingers were going numb. While my gloves had been warm when i tested them before, they were not windproof. With a sharp wind the temperature was approaching zero and i knew i was in trouble. I struggled to keep my fingers warm for awhile before eventually deciding to put away my trekking poles, keeping my hands in my pockets as i climbed. This was a big loss, as the poles help tremendously with balance, rhythm, and reduce the strain on your knees and calves. This loss had all the dire seriousness as when Luke Skywalker shut off his targeting computer while making his final attack run on the Death Star in the first Star Wars.

For hours and hours we climbed and climbed. My legs burned and the altitude made it increasingly difficult to breathe. The wind picked up and the temperature was well below zero now. My toes began to go numb (despite my 3 pairs of socks) so i tried wiggling them as i climbed. When we did stop for rare breaks they could not last long – any more than 2-3 minutes and we’d lose enough body heat to begin going hypothermic. Although insulated, i had to take a sip of water every few minutes, both to keep hydrated but also to keep my water from freezing.. which it eventually did.

I knew we’d been climbing for hours now but i forced myself not to look at my watch. I was exhausted, forcing myself to just place one foot in front of the other and telling myself “breathe DEEP, your brain needs the oxygen!” Then Samuel told me that we were just 10 minutes from Stella Point, the crater rim. Twenty minutes went by and he said it again, just ten minutes! I kept looking up in the darkness and could see the outline of the rim against the sky, but it still seemed like an eternity away. Finally, we reached the rim and i was ready to topple over – i had run completely out of energy some time ago. We had already been climbing 5 ½ hours.

After a quick break, my toes numb and water frozen, we made the final push for the summit - Uhuru. The eastern sky began to lighten as dawn approached. My energy long since depleted, Samuel urged me on.. by now i was driven purely by determination. Like a boxer still standing after 20 rounds, i literally staggered the final several hundred yards to the summit.

The money shot - standing atop of all of Africa!!!

We reached the summit at exactly 6:00 am, just over 6 ½ hours after we began. At the same moment the sun burst above the horizon to rise over East Africa – and what a glorious sunrise it was! I felt a surge of exhilaration while Samuel and i high-fived and hugged. I was the very first person to reach the summit that day. I walked over to the crater rim and shouted at the top of my lungs – “UHURU!!!” so that everyone would know.

Nothing like watching the sunrise from the top of the world.. oh yes!

After signing the guestbook (who’d have thought?) and several minutes of congratulations and pictures, we started back down. We passed dozens of climbers on their way up and i urged them on.. “You’re almost there!” I ran into Alex, my Dutch friend and congratulated him, but i was disappointed to hear that his wife had to turn back with severe chest pains. As we made our way down i looked in awe at the glistening and mighty glaciers.

Glaciers in Africa are awesome.. too bad they'l be gone in a few years ;-(

Peering down into the volcanic crater atop Kilimanjaro.

I had given everything i had to reach the summit. Going back down was nearly as difficult. I was so spent i just wanted to collapse and roll down the 4,300 feet back to camp. I could not believe how far we’d climbed, looking down at the spec which was our base camp. It was like standing at the edge of the Grand Canyon peering down to the very bottom.. “we have to get all the way down there??!”

We finally got back to Barafu base camp after 3 hours, where i promptly passed out. After a quick nap, it was time to pack up and keep going. We descended another 5,000 feet to Mweka camp for our final night on the mountain. In all, that day i climbed 4,265 feet before descending 9,173 feet in almost 12 hours, covering 14 miles of mountain! Wow!

I was so close to Heaven i figured i'd shoot God a hello arrow!!

Climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro was the most difficult thing i have ever done in my life. It was an incredible experience that i will never forget and is something i will always keep with me and that no one can EVER take away. Thanks for reading.

Oh yea.. it's time to celebrate! Make the most of it baby!

It's Kili time!!!

I took this picture from my hotel balcony after arriving in Moshi this evening. Isn't she just gorgeous?! Tomorrow i embark on my attempt to climb Kilimanjaro - and i am sooo excited!!

If successful, it will take me seven days.. so you won't be hearing from me for awhile. If unsuccessful, i will come back early and probably not post anything to keep you wondering.. haha! Truth is.. unsuccessful just isn't in my vocabulary.

Climbing Kilimanjaro.. the tallest freestanding mountain in the world.. this is what i have read all about and trained for months to do.. this is what i came for! Wish me luck!!!

Dar to Moshi via Scandinavia

So today i rode the lovely Scandinavian bus from Dar es Salaam to Moshi, which is at the base of Kilimanjaro. The ride along the way was a visual feast.. and i could probably write a book just on all of the amazing things i saw today - from people chopping wood and weaving baskets to schoolchildren in their uniforms and men making bricks from the clay earth. However, these pictures will have to suffice until i can get a publisher all lined up for the book. Enjoy!

I can't believe this guy is taking a BREAK!

This kid is tryin to sell me some toothpaste - no thanks!

Many parts of the countryside are gorgeous.

They were out of bananas, but this guy tried his hardest to sell me an orange.

Good god.. i have no idea how they do it.

Women in the lovely kiswahili dress.

I believe homeowner's insurance here won't cover fire damages.

Who doesn't want to look like THIS guy??!

Dar es Salaam

Flying into beautiful Dar - looks like Phoenix without the pools!

As i am riding into town after flying into Dar es Salaam, Tanzania yesterday i had a difficult time taking all of the chaos in and my eyes nearly popped out of my head. I felt like I was in a movie. The best way I can describe things is Tijuana on its worst day – insanely crazy traffic, smoggy air, trash all over the streets, men lounging by the dozen under every tree, women carrying packages of all shapes and sizes on their heads, boys and men tapping on the window at every stoplight selling eggs, newspapers, bootleg DVDs, whatever! It is complete madness.. and I wonder what the hell I’ve gotten myself into.

I chat with my taxi driver Omar to distract myself from the chaos all around outside. He tells me that he is Christian, so I ask him how he celebrates Christmas. “My whole family comes together to celebrate, and in a good year, we slaughter a goat. You?” “Yea, same here!”, I replied.

I went to the bus station and bought my ticket to Moshi, which is the town at the base of Kilimanjaro. No one at the station could tell me when the bus arrives or how long the journey takes.. obviously an inexact science. I chose to go with the Scandinavian bus line (which is ironic because there are no Scandinavians in sight) based on the following description in my guidebook:

“Choose your bus company carefully. The Dar to Moshi highway is notorious for the number of accidents that occur along it. It is recommended to take Scandinavia, whose buses do take a little longer to travel than their competitors but that’s simply because their drivers are alert to road signs, other road users, pedestrians and so forth.”

After checking into my roach hotel and changing into my crappiest maybe-that-white-guy-isn’t-really-a-tourist clothes i survey the scene on the street. It was like standing at the edge of a frightening cliff. While considering the certainty of survival and not being mugged by staying in my hotel room, i did just the opposite – i went for a walk.

checking out the mosquito net, my best defense against malaria!

Immediately after stepping into the street some guy approaches me and starts talking fast – great! (so much for the clothes disguise) He asks, “What country are you from?” I smile and reply coolly, “I’m from here, man.” He looks puzzled for a moment before deciding not to believe me. I quickly change direction and say “i’m going this way” to ditch him and continue on down a smelly side street. As a grain of salt in a sea of pepper, i can feel all eyes on me as I walk. When strangers shout at me i pretend not to notice and continue walking. Groups of men are lounging around everywhere. This makes me the most nervous. So i did something clever – i joined them. I found a good spot and sat down to take in the whole scene. They continued watching me for awhile but gradually lost interest.

Then the guy i ditched earlier comes over and after a few minutes of talking i decide he’s really just friendly and curious. His name is James and he is sporting a “Boston University Basketball” t-shirt, but something tells me that he didn’t go to school there nor has he ever played basketball. At one point he mentions a pub around the corner, so i suggest we check it out and grab a beer. I’ve been dying to try Kilimanjaro beer ever since i saw the first crudely painted billboard announcing – “It’s Kili time!”

The “pub” turns out to really be a sidewalk with several plastic tables and chairs. Beers are only 800 Tanzanian schillings, or about $0.70 – awesome! James tells me that he likes women with “big bottoms” and we both laugh. “If you marry a thin girl here, people will LAUGH at you!” At 27, James is in no hurry to get married. “When you get married the wife yells all the time and you can’t do anything!” Wow.. some things are the same the world over!


I ask James if he ever eats bush meat and he says he does. Like what? “Eland, rhinos, hippos, elephant.” “WHAT??! Isn’t that.. illegal?” He looks puzzled again and then a bit embarrassed. He explains, “But we never eat giraffe. They are social animals and people like them. If you kill a giraffe, you get killed.” Sure, that makes sense.

One thing I gotta give Tanzanians credit for is their entrepreneurial spirit. There are people all over selling anything you can imagine. And this doesn’t just occur in specific places, but everywhere. Just while we are sitting having our beer we were offered everything from peanuts to necklaces, a small electric clothing iron, boxer shorts, while one guy was carrying around a single pair of khaki pants (i held them up, but they were too tall for me).

The lovely view from my roach hotel window.

This morning in Dar i sat down with a German girl during breakfast. She has been working on a World Bank poverty relief project and traveling in her free time over the past few weeks. She told me i was the first American she has seen her entire trip. This pleases me immensely.

Cape Town - South Africa's Jewel

Cape Town is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful cities in the world, perched on the edge of Africa and graced by the stunning Table Mountain (could you tell i love it?). While South Africa is the continent's most fruitful nation, Cape Town is the country's prized jewel. European in style, the city is distinctly African - sporting incredible diversity but also stark inequities.

Just south of the city center gorgeous homes line the coast like strings of pearls. Meanwhile, just north of downtown millions live in decrepit shantytowns called "Townships". Here basic services are scant while the HIV rate is sky high (one estimate i heard suggests the rate is 65% between the ages of 18-24, but such statistics are unofficial and difficult to collect). It would be easy to blame the white Afrikaners (Dutch descendents) for this inequity, but the problems run deeper than just color. The city is light years ahead of most other African cities but there is still plenty of work to be done. When i asked a local black woman why "security guards" (men or women in orange vests) are posted about every two blocks she looked at me surprised, and answered "Because the crime rate is so high!" Oh.. not exactly the answer i wanted to hear.

a township in Cape Town

However, there are signs of renewal and improvement everywhere. Fresh clean shops and hip restaurants are popping up all over and business is good. Yesterday i went to visit the U.S. Department of Commerce office, which includes all of three people. The director of the office, Tyrena, was very friendly and talkative. After living in DC for 18 years she loves Cape Town but can appreciate its growing pains. As we lamented the problem of AIDS here she made a compelling point that has stuck with me - "Remember, this country is barely ten years old!" We had a good conversation and i learned a lot about the city and the country. Before i left, i helped her to reset her Lotus Notes password and then we said goodbye.

Siluto works in a hip coffee shop and really liked my shades

Today i rented a car with a Canadian guy i met named Peter. We drove down the coast to Cape Point National Park, a spectacular drive literally leading to the End of the World. After we hiked to the edge of Cape Point and stood looking southward, nothing stood between us and Antarctica! The drive was gorgeous - i loved the crashing surf, the fresh salty air, and refreshing cool breezes. It made me really miss living in California!


During our drive we encountered several neat animals. I was severely disappointed that we were not accosted by the infamous Chacma baboons, which are said to be quite obnoxious in their pursuit of robbing humans of any food. However, we did see a few wild ostriches, an Agama lizard (like a chameleon), African penguins (aka "Jackass penguins"), several Southern Right whales, and bonteboks. I knew i was in Africa when discovering the bonteboks relaxing just yards off of the road. They certainly didn't mind my taking pictures, and a small fawn made sure to grab a quick meal from its mother.

"Hey, I'm no jackass!"

Early tomorrow morning i leave South Africa and fly to Tanzania.. where my REAL adventure begins. I'm expecting TZ to make Cape Town look like The Ritz.

Thanks to everyone who has been posting comments.. it's awesome to read them!

The end of the world isn't so bad!

UPDATE - Table Mountain

If you haven't already, check out my post below about my climb of Table Mountain when i first arrived in SA. Then check out this snippet from today's Cape Times newspaper:

Flashing Camera Saves Japanese Tourists Stranded on Freezing Table Mountain

Two Japanese tourists had to be rescued off the front face of the mountain by EMS and Wilderness Search & Rescure last night. Apparently they missed the last cable car down the mountain and become lost trying to find their way back down the mountain. They were found by rescuers after using their camera flash to attract attention but had already began experiencing symptoms of hypothermia. Had they not been found that may have frozen to death on the mountain.

So yea.. guess it was a GOOD idea to take the last cable car down since i didn't have my flashlight!

Robben Island - the Birth of Freedom

As i arrived on Robben Island i realized that this place deserves the same somber respect as when i visited the German concentration camp of Dachau a few years ago. The difference is that here the outcome was much more positive. That is not to say that the apartheid regime was any less threatening. The men imprisoned on Robben Island were not criminals, but political prisoners - men who had ideas about how to create a better South Africa, a country that was free and its citizens equal.

The first half of the tour consisted of a bus ride around the island with a very informative guide. There are actually several game animals on the island, some of which are endangered species finding sanctuary there. After the bus tour, we began the "real tour" of the prison itself. Our guide was Pheneas Poho, who was convicted in 1985 of treason and "subversive action" for organizing marches and leading protests against apartheid. He was sentenced to 15 years in prison.

Pheneas described prison life and how blacks were treated even worse than other prisoners. For example, blacks were served a fraction of the already measly meals that Indian and Colored (black/white mix) prisoners received. The purpose of this was to divide the prisoners and incite fighting. However, rather than fight over their food, the more 'privileged' prisoners chose to share their food with the others.

The prisoners of Robben Island came from different races, political affiliations (including communism), and competing ideas about toppling apartheid (primarily violence vs. non-violence). But in prison they put their differences aside and focused on working together. In order to improve their terrible living conditions, the prisoners would all have to agree on a proposed action before it was done. This is where democracy in South Africa was born.

The most remarkable thing about the men imprisoned on Robben Island is how they educated one another. Often while crushing limestone all day in the blazing sun a prisoner would whisper a lesson or write in the sand to teach the others what he knew. They also would smuggle books to each other and hide notes in the soil of the garden. As international pressure mounted and conditions began to improve, the men were allowed to exercise. They took this opportunity to play games to develop teamwork and encourage cooperation. Later these same men would become the future leaders and political representatives of the new nation.

Robben Island inmates pound limestone for endless hours

I asked Pheneas about Mandela's leadership and the incredible will that the men had to work together. They realized that only through cooperation and unity could they eventually win their freedom and walk on the streets as equal citizens. I find this story incredibly powerful, suggesting that that peace is possible even in the most dire of conditions. I also realized that South Africa might not be a successful democracy today, if democracy had not first been born inside the prison walls of Robben Island.

myself and Phineas Poho, former political prisoner and ANC member "in this life and after"

Arrival in South Africa.

As the morning sun rose over southern Africa and i peered out of my airplane window with bleary eyes my heart surged as i thought to myself.. "There are lions down there!!!" Then a more sobering thought took hold - "One out of seven people down there are HIV positive." Wow, too early for thoughts like that!

And so after 26 hours straight in airplanes and airports i finally reached Cape Town, South Africa. I was slightly surprised to find out that my "direct" flight from DC to Johannesburg actually stopped in Ghana to refuel and pick up new passengers at 2 am. I guess i was naive to think that an airplane could fly 17 hours without adding fuel, and i was equally surprised to see lights in the middle of the night in Africa. Boy, the things we learn (or don't) from television.

In Accra, Ghana (the capital, of course) we picked up Peter, who took the vacant seat next to me. Peter is a miner from Ghana who is travelling to Congo for work mining copper. Very polite and well spoken, we talked about Ghana, terrorism ("It's made things less safe everywhere"), and religion. He's worked and lived all over, from Jamaica to Tanzania and the U.K. He told me that in Africa "you just have to go where the work is", despite the protests of his wife whom he left behind. "It's only a two-year contract", he said. When i asked if he was Muslim he said "No, i am trying to be Christian but i haven't made it yet, due to my shortcomings." I told him Christians in my country have plenty of shortcomings but they're still Christian. In Jo'burg we wished each other well and he headed for the Congo and i for Cape Town.

After checking into my hostel and throwing my bag down i pulled on my hiking boots to climb Table Mountain. Running on just 8 hours sleep in the previous 51 hours i set out for the mountain. Table Mountain is utterly magnificent. Starkly rising up around Cape Town it lends the city a supreme holiness. Before coming here, i had read about the creation myths and had seen video of all the spiritual mumbo jumbo associated with this mountain. But when i climbed the mountain, i felt it.

The sounds of birds chirping echoes off the mountain walls as water droplets flutter down from above as though Mother Nature were tearing up. The plants were green and lush, the rocks strong and sturdy. All the while the ghostliest of clouds drift by silently as the city lies peacefully below. I was in awe - it was wonderful.


At the top of Table Mountain the views are breathtaking. After reaching the summit climbing practically straight up over boulders, i was dismayed to find concrete pathways and a plethora of tourists, who had taken the cable car up to walk around and snap photos. Oh well.. they couldn't ruin it for me! I stayed until sunset and watched a glorious one over the Atlantic Ocean. And yes, i did grudgingly take the cable car back down - what, did you think i was gonna hike back down in the DARK??! (honestly i wanted to, but i had forgotten to pack my flashlight).

Destination: Africa!

In just a few hours i will be taking off for Africa. The excitement is quite overwhelming. The wonderful thing about traveling is that you learn so much as the world brightens in your mind, like a long dark shadow suddenly illuminated to reveal the treasures of a place. It's one thing to see a country or a city on a map, but to walk through it, taste the air, hear the bustle of life, see the people and listen to their language - it is humbling, it is an honor.

In the past several days i have been offered numerous gems of wisdom and pearls of knowledge from friends and family. Most simply tell me to "Be careful, and come back safe." I appreciate the sentiment. It's nice to hear, but not especially useful. You know, i do PLAN on coming back safe after all! The absolute best practical advice i've received comes from my Uncle Kurt:

"...if someone in khakis suddenly hands you an AK-47 you might want to check your agenda before accepting it."

Excellent point - I'll be certain to keep that one in mind!

Keep checking back every few days cause if there is electricity AND internet and i have a few minutes between climbing mountains and running from lions i will post updates.

My friend Jen was kind enough to remind me what i'll look like to the lions in Tanzania. Below is the cover of the "Good luck and try not to be eaten while in Africa!" card she gave me. Thanks Jen!

Wildlife Safari!

"You cannot describe a wild lion's roar. You can only say that you listened and the lion roared. It is not at all like the noise the lion makes at the start of MGM pictures. When you hear it you first feel it in your toes and it runs all the way up through your body." - Ernest Hemingway, in True At First Light

Just imagine lying in the dark in your tent listening to the sounds of the wild things in the night. You hear a lion's great roar in the distance, but it is so powerful you can't be sure how close it really is. The roar could mean that he's just made a kill, or perhaps he's saying something to the other lions. Either way there are no fences here and you are now in lion territory. I can think of few things more exciting.

While on safari there is no telling what incredible animals you will encounter. However, i have a good feeling that the experience of sharing their space will never leave you. Tanzania is known for being among the leaders in African conservation efforts and is lucky enough to possess arguably the best game parks in the world. When you think of the "African plain", with acacia trees beautifully spread over tall yellow grasses, what you are thinking of is Tanzania. This is quintessential Africa.

I'm just excited to have the opportunity to explore the Serengeti National Park and see these incredible animals. If i had more time i'd love to go on a "walking safari", which is pretty self-explanatory. You don't see as much game on foot and it is certainly more dangerous (usually requires that you hire gun bearers), but infinitely exciting. Instead, to maximize my time i'll travel via land rover to cover large areas of land and spy many more animals. If you asked what i am most excited to see, i'd probably say "anything!". How often do you get the chance to see zebras, lions, elephants, hyenas, hippos, or giraffes in their natural environment?!?

Truth is i am most looking forward to seeing elephants. These creatures are fascinating. Scientists have recently discovered that they communicate by trumpeting (nothing new there) but they can actually hear each other MILES away through their feet!!! They also are very social animals with sophisticated social structures. Elephants even display emotions, having been known to "mourn" the death of a pack member years later and express joy at being reunited with one another.

One story i love comes from an elephant researcher who lost her flip-flop shoe in the bush. As she walked shoeless back to her vehicle a nearby elephant threw the lost shoe to her. The elephant appeared to be acting playful, so she threw the shoe back to see what would happen. Sure enough the elephant picked up the shoe and tossed it back! This went on for a good twenty minutes. Though we've seen elephants perform in the circus, remember, this is a wild animal! Elephants are also known to be very protective of their young and a mother won't think twice about trampling any human to death who gets too close. So yea, i will have to remember to be careful out there in the bush!

Man Eating Lions??! Oh Yes!

As humans increasingly encroach upon the natural environment the results are not always pretty, especially when it is the territory of lions being invaded. The most famous example of this comes from an area called Tsavo not far from where i will be in Tanzania.

In 1898 two large male lions attacked Indian workers who were building a railway through the region. During the night, these lions would sneak into the worker's encampment and drag the victims screaming from their tents one by one. The workers tried to protect themselves by constructing thornbush barriers called bomas but this was hardly successful. In just nine months these two lions killed and ate over 140 humans!!! Construction of the railway was halted as hundreds of the workers fled for their lives. Eventually, British Colonel John Patterson was able to kill both lions after cleverly devising traps and capturing them. However, the frightening legacy of the "Man-Eaters of Tsavo" lives on.

Personally i can't blame the lions - but don't tell them that. Humans have increasingly moved in on their hunting territories and killed large numbers of the game animals lions depend on for survival. Still, lion attacks make great headlines - below are several recent articles.

Lion Attacks on Rise in Tanzania

Toothache "Made Lion Eat Humans"

Lion Devours Human 'Lovemaker'

But hey, not ALL lion headlines are so bad. Check this one out:

Lions Capture Escaped Cons

And if you have a good sense of humor, check out this fake article:

Lion Mutilates 42 Midgets in Cambodian Ring Fight

Mandela - The People's Hero

When i began preparing for this trip, i felt that South Africa could not be missed. Having emerged from the violent ravages of the apartheid struggle just 11 years ago(!) i'd heard great things about this "new nation". However, i knew very little about the country's struggle and how it came to be today. It's a bit embarrassing to admit but the truth is all i knew was this: apartheid = bad, Mandela = good.

Determined to educate myself on the subject, i picked up Nelson Mandela's excellent autobiography A Long Walk to Freedom. And a very long walk it was - Mandela was imprisoned for twenty-seven years, seventeen of which was spent on the completely isolated Robben Island, South Africa's Alcatraz. As a young lawyer, Mandela fought for equal rights among the country's blacks, who far outnumbered the white ruling minority. He believed in peaceful resistance and hoped that both whites and blacks could live together as equals in a democratic society. Unfortunately, the rulers of the apartheid regime believed the best way to handle Mandela and his growing popularity was to convict him for "treason" and sentence him to life in prison. They thought by imprisoning the charismatic and well-spoken leader that he would be forgotten and the equality movement would die. How very wrong they were.

Mandela never compromised his ideals and always treated his captors and the apartheid leaders with the utmost respect, even when they didn't necessarily deserve it. To illustrate his sincerity to peaceful co-existence he even learned their language (Afrikaans) and studied their history in order to better understand them as a people. As the anti-apartheid movement gained international support and eventually turned violent, the oppressive rulers knew their grip was slipping as the country stood on the brink of tearing itself apart in bloody fashion. From his prison cell, with extreme patience and cleverness, Mandela masterfully negotiated the delicate transition from apartheid rule to the establishment of democracy and equal rights for all South Africans - black and white.

To legitimize the peaceful transition to democracy, apartheid leaders realized that Mandela had to be released. On February 11th, 1990 the world watched as Mandela was finally released after 27 years in prison - truly a day that South Africa will never forget. He was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 1993. In the next few years the government transitioned to democracy and Nelson Mandela became the first freely elected South African president in 1994.

An inspiration to millions around the world, Nelson Mandela is undoubtedly one of the greatest leaders and true heroes of the past century. When i am in Cape Town i plan to visit Robben Island where Mandela was imprisoned for so many years. Former political prisoners now act as tour guides as the healing continues and South Africa moves towards a bright future.

"I have fought against white domination, and I have fought against black domination. I have cherished the ideal of a democratic and free society in which all persons live together in harmony and with equal opportunities. It is an ideal which I hope to live for and to achieve. But if needs be, it is an ideal for which I am prepared to die." - Nelson Mandela, April 20th 1964, prior to being sentenced to life imprisonment

Training For The Climb

When i tell others about this trip the most frequently asked question is - "So just how do you train to climb a mountain like that??" Good question. For this i did a lot of reading and asking around before designing my training program.

The basic idea is that before the climb you want to be in great all-around shape.. if your body can handle strenuous activity at the current elevation, you will be better able to handle very strenuous activity at higher elevation (with less oxygen). That being said, it is important to vary your training activities to handle the various stressors on the mountain. Once on the mountain it is important to climb slowly and steadily (your body demands less oxygen this way), drink LOTS of water (so the oxygen you breathe gets distributed throughout your body), and i also plan to take Diamox, which aids your body in acclimatizing.

The training program i designed and have been following for the past few months is composed of the following:

Cardio Activity - running several miles (3-4) almost every other day
Weight Training - i adjusted my usual routine to focus on the lower body
Stairclimbing - yes, the Stairclimber at the gym.. and it's tougher than it looks!
Hiking - on the weekends i've been taking long hikes (6-7 hours) on mountains in the area
Interval Training - this is basically periods of intense activity alternated with less intense activity, for this i ran laps and stadiums at the local high school track

Since my training program began i have run 81 miles, lifted a few thousand pounds of weights (not all at once of course), climbed 654 flights of stairs on the Stairclimber, hiked 37 miles of mountains, and run 6 miles of intervals. Below is a picture i took on Camelback Mountain which i climbed a few weeks ago in Phoenix.

Climbing Kilimanjaro

"It was without a doubt the most difficult thing I’ve ever gone through with and completed in my life." - Dan D., summited Kilimanjaro 9/17/2005

So how do you go about climbing the tallest mountain in Africa? Tanzanian law requires that you hire a guide, which in all honesty is probably a good thing! The guide will help show you the route up the mountain while porters carry up much of the gear and cooking equipment. In Tanzania being a guide or porter is a highly desirable job and so the competition is stiff. During the climb the guide will constantly remind you by shouting Pole! Pole! which is Swahili for "slowly! slowly!". Going slow with even breathing is a big part of helping your body to acclimatize.

There are several routes up the mountain. The most popular and fastest route is called the Marangu or 'Coca-Cola' route. Climbers choose Marangu because it is the cheapest and easiest way up the mountain, but it is also the most crowded. Along the way climbers sleep in huts (i'd prefer to rough it). On Marangu you also have the least chance of successfully reaching the summit because the body has a very difficult time acclimatizing (hence increasing the risk of death).

I've chosen to take the Machame route, which is known to be more difficult than Marangu but far more beautiful. Also, the route reaches a high point in elevation on the third day before descending across the mountain face to that night's camp. This aids adjustment to the altitude. Reaching the summit on this route is still difficult, but more likely than some of the other routes. And above all.. this route promises spectacular views along the way.

Mt. Kilimanjaro

The first time i heard of Mt. Kilimanjaro was a few years ago when i read Hemingway's short story The Snows of Kilimanjaro. My imagination was captured by this incredible mountain standing like a guardian over the east African plain. When i heard it was possible to climb the mountain, it immediately was recorded on my mental list of "Things i Must Do Before i Die". There is no time like the present to start checking things off that list! Which begs the question.. what's on your list?

Mt. Kilimanjaro is the world's tallest freestanding mountain, formed by three massive volcanoes that became one giant mountain. Visually striking and known for its beauty, Mt. Kilimanjaro rises above the surrounding African plain in dramatic fashion. Atop the mountain, glaciers and snow provide a year-round sparkling white cap. Sadly, these glaciers which have existed for thousands of years are expected to be gone in the next 15-20 years. One exciting thing about climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro is that you have the opportunity to traverse through 5 distinct eco-zones: beginning in rainforest, then heath (small shrublands), moorland (peat moss), alpine desert and finally glaciers.

Climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro is no easy task. Only fifty percent of those who attempt to climb the mountain actually make it to the summit, and each year several climbers die while trying. In fact, ten climbers have died on the mountain the past year. The most dangerous aspect of climbing is succumbing to altitude sickness from the lack of oxygen.

I love this fact - my buddy Pete (who is a pilot) explained to me that the FAA requires any airplane flying above 14,000 feet to have a pressurized cabin with oxygen. At 19,350 feet, the summit of Kilimanjaro is far higher, and the air only has HALF the oxygen that it does at sea level. If you're not careful and/or prepared, the lack of oxygen to your brain can result in altitude sickness and your body systems begin shutting down. Scary, i know.. so that's why i've been training the past three months and plan to be 100% prepared when i tackle the mountain in just a few short weeks. Wish me luck!

So Why Africa?

Safari is a Swahili word that means "a journey", but in English the word conjures up "adventure", "exotic animals", or perhaps images of the wide open African plain. Several people have asked me "So what crazy idea inspired you to go to Africa?!?" A fair question, indeed. For me, Africa holds a sort of romantic wildness, where human beings still live off the land while amazing animals (that we've only ever seen in zoos) roam free and wild. Aside from seeking natural beauty, I'm drawn to this fascinating land and people tempered by unique political, economic, and cultural histories.

Of course, "Africa" is an entire continent, very large and incredibly diverse. While it is comprised of over 50 countries(!), it's usually easier to say "i'm going to Africa".. as most don't know their Zambia from their Zimbabwe. Raise your hand if you fall into this category. It's okay, because i didn't exactly know these differences either before i started preparing for this trip. But that's why i choose to travel.. to meet people of different walks of life, experience new cultures, and learn more about our incredible world.

So just where am i going on this African adventure? First, i am flying direct from DC to Johannesburg, South Africa (17 glorious hours!) and then another two hour flight to Cape Town. After a few days exploring this culturally rich and beautiful city, i'll fly to the east African country of Tanzania. Here i will spend the bulk of my trip as i go on safari in the world renowned Serengeti National Park where i hope to see elephants, lions, rhinos, giraffes, leopards, zebras, hippos, and maybe an odd wildebeest or hyena. While in Tanzania, i also plan to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro, one of the world's most striking mountains and Africa's tallest. This should be quite a challenge, and i welcome a great challenge!

I created this blog with the intention of sharing my experiences with you. Hopefully i'll manage to keep it interesting, get some awesome pictures during my adventures, and maybe we'll even learn a thing or two about this dynamic continent!