Cape Town - South Africa's Jewel

Cape Town is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful cities in the world, perched on the edge of Africa and graced by the stunning Table Mountain (could you tell i love it?). While South Africa is the continent's most fruitful nation, Cape Town is the country's prized jewel. European in style, the city is distinctly African - sporting incredible diversity but also stark inequities.

Just south of the city center gorgeous homes line the coast like strings of pearls. Meanwhile, just north of downtown millions live in decrepit shantytowns called "Townships". Here basic services are scant while the HIV rate is sky high (one estimate i heard suggests the rate is 65% between the ages of 18-24, but such statistics are unofficial and difficult to collect). It would be easy to blame the white Afrikaners (Dutch descendents) for this inequity, but the problems run deeper than just color. The city is light years ahead of most other African cities but there is still plenty of work to be done. When i asked a local black woman why "security guards" (men or women in orange vests) are posted about every two blocks she looked at me surprised, and answered "Because the crime rate is so high!" Oh.. not exactly the answer i wanted to hear.

a township in Cape Town

However, there are signs of renewal and improvement everywhere. Fresh clean shops and hip restaurants are popping up all over and business is good. Yesterday i went to visit the U.S. Department of Commerce office, which includes all of three people. The director of the office, Tyrena, was very friendly and talkative. After living in DC for 18 years she loves Cape Town but can appreciate its growing pains. As we lamented the problem of AIDS here she made a compelling point that has stuck with me - "Remember, this country is barely ten years old!" We had a good conversation and i learned a lot about the city and the country. Before i left, i helped her to reset her Lotus Notes password and then we said goodbye.

Siluto works in a hip coffee shop and really liked my shades

Today i rented a car with a Canadian guy i met named Peter. We drove down the coast to Cape Point National Park, a spectacular drive literally leading to the End of the World. After we hiked to the edge of Cape Point and stood looking southward, nothing stood between us and Antarctica! The drive was gorgeous - i loved the crashing surf, the fresh salty air, and refreshing cool breezes. It made me really miss living in California!


During our drive we encountered several neat animals. I was severely disappointed that we were not accosted by the infamous Chacma baboons, which are said to be quite obnoxious in their pursuit of robbing humans of any food. However, we did see a few wild ostriches, an Agama lizard (like a chameleon), African penguins (aka "Jackass penguins"), several Southern Right whales, and bonteboks. I knew i was in Africa when discovering the bonteboks relaxing just yards off of the road. They certainly didn't mind my taking pictures, and a small fawn made sure to grab a quick meal from its mother.

"Hey, I'm no jackass!"

Early tomorrow morning i leave South Africa and fly to Tanzania.. where my REAL adventure begins. I'm expecting TZ to make Cape Town look like The Ritz.

Thanks to everyone who has been posting comments.. it's awesome to read them!

The end of the world isn't so bad!